The Charm of Wawona….And Some Great Music Too

I’m pretty passionate about food, but equally passionate about a lot of other things. The Sierra Nevada is one of them and I have dedicated the past 17 summers to working at Vermilion and spending as much off-season time as possible in Yosemite.

I’ll emphasize off-season. Yosemite is the crown jewel of California but utterly miserable during the summer. During the high season it is a veritable parking lot, making Disneyland seem serene. Going during the summer might be better than not going at all, but not much. The best time to visit is beyond a doubt spring or fall. I love it in November and March.

So aside from Vermilion what’s my favorite secret Sierra getaway? Well, you’d be surprised to know it’s inside the great park itself. Wawona is a wonderful spot away from the hustle and bustle of the valley, even during the summer. There is a great place called The Redwoods at Yosemite that rents out some of the private cabins in the area, perfect for families and groups.  And although people usually associate the grand dame of hotels, The Ahwahnee, with Yosemite, the rustic charm and wide verandas of the Wawona Hotel are always calling my name.

There’s a lot of great things about the hotel, no cel coverage (at least on ATT), no in room phones and no TVs. Might sound like torture but it is a great way to unplug and get off the grid. The original hotel was built in 1879 and while walking the grounds with a cocktail in your hand and no cell phone blowing you up all the time, it’s easy to transport back to a simpler era.

But the best thing about staying at the Wawona hotel? Well, that just has to be the vocal stylings of the one and only Tom Bopp, Yosemite’s resident musical historian and piano maestro. In days of yore, before TV, radio and the Internet, people would entertain themselves in rustic lodges listening to a musician and visiting. The din of large screen TVs and piped-in music has replaced the hum of  idle chit-chat, tinkling of piano keys and the clinking of glassware, but not here. In the evenings Tom holds court, as it were, in the main parlor. It is a rare treat to enjoy an ice-cold Manhattan and snack on a cheese plate while you listen to someone as talented as him. His repertoire encompasses songs from the 1950’s back to the late 1800’s, many of them attached to interesting tales relating to the history of Yosemite. The parlor is wonderful, with warm fireplaces and cozy seating. I have had one lackluster experience in the dining room, but their appetizer and cocktail menu are well-done, pretty nice wine list too. Staff is attentive even when it’s busy, and that room can fill up for sure.

Want to be transported back in time with a five-hour drive? Well, skip staying in Yosemite Valley and park it in Wawona. The valley awaits for a day trip, relax away from the crowds here instead.